Earlier this month I visited Seoul, to see a number of the tailors I had been intrigued by however largely seen from afar, and to go to a number of the outlets and types.
My impression was of a dynamic metropolis – new improvement, new retail, each store with a particular idea and branding. There gave the impression to be an impartial espresso spot on each block, every with a fully-fledged identification, full with interval furnishings and branded stickers.
Comparisons with Japan are in all probability inevitable – particularly for a westerner – and Seoul felt newer, extra tech-savvy, extra open. It’s mentioned Tokyo appears like the town of the long run, in 1990; Seoul appears like the long run now.
This isn’t essentially good. I like custom and I like previous buildings. In some ways Seoul just isn’t my sort of metropolis. However there are some extra neighbourly areas and the longer I stayed (we have been there every week) the extra I favored it.
The retail was additionally distinctive. Similar to the espresso outlets, each block of Seoul has a number of vogue start-ups alongside the traditional big-brand flagships. They’re quick altering and (one other distinction from Japan) fuelled by social media.
I used to be advised retail has matured prior to now 10 years although.
The criticism of Korea was once that it was all hype; that it adopted fashions faster than anybody else however dropped them faster too. Talking to those who have lived there – and both labored in menswear or been customers – that appears to be altering.
Basic menswear was an enormous pattern for maybe 10 years (an enormous factor in a spot the place, in contrast to Japan, few folks put on fits). That has began to fade in recent times, however there nonetheless appears to be sufficient makers and clients for it to be sustainable. Classic was additionally an enormous factor, however regardless that it’s not as common because it as soon as was, there are nonetheless some actually nice shops (in truth, maybe my favourites anyplace). There’s rather less hype as of late, and a little bit extra variety.
Tailoring has been by itself journey too, and I’ll cowl that in a separate article. Right now I’m simply going to say the perfect outlets we went too – one thing a couple of readers have already requested for.
The listing is under no circumstances complete, because it was our first go to and we spent a variety of time seeing tailors. However I feel it’s an ideal set of locations for any Everlasting Model reader to go to, and hopefully I’ll get an opportunity to flesh it out sooner or later.
Thanks Sam, Matt and everybody who was so beneficiant to myself and Alex throughout our time in Seoul. Hopefully this and future protection will do some sort of justice to your metropolis.
San Francisco Market
San Francisco Market was the primary actual menswear multibrand retailer in Korea, although that solely makes it 30 years previous. It’s an fascinating combine right this moment, with manufacturers like Nepenthes and Engineered Clothes alongside Alden and Andersen-Andersen. Upstairs there’s Liverano and Jacob Cohen denims.
Unipair
Unipair is the second technology of menswear in Seoul, tracing its historical past again to the beginning of PS and a lot else, in 2008. It started as a shoe area inside San Francisco Market and is now a big, conventional store with a powerful entrance, stocking the widest vary of basic footwear in Seoul. They’re planning on launching a bespoke service subsequent 12 months. Joe’s Storage (beneath) and the Drake’s store are operated by the identical group.
Joe’s Storage
store for Japanese repro manufacturers, with a specific emphasis on Toys McCoy and Boncoura, which we don’t see a lot of within the UK. There are additionally the extra normal manufacturers corresponding to Full Depend and Warehouse, plus Korean manufacturers Demil and Eastlogue. The latter is an effective instance of what Korea has change into more and more identified for overseas: down-filled and different out of doors clothes, additionally seen at FrizmWorks for instance.
Barbershop
I’ve to say, being in Seoul makes you miss good multibrand (‘choose’) shops. There are so few in London, and so they all the time offer you a contemporary perspective on the manufacturers they select. In addition they (in Seoul as in Tokyo) usually have European manufacturers which might be hardly obtainable in Europe. Barbershop is likely one of the greatest, with highlights after we visited being an extended lengthy row of Harley shetlands and a collection of Owen Barry shearling.
Parlour
A shoe retailer that’s a part of the identical group as Barber Store, Parlour (above) additionally has some smarter clothes – they’ve simply launched a ready-to-wear choice designed by Sartoria Jun, the primary foreign-trained tailor in Seoul. The footwear included unique make-ups of Alden (corresponding to a slightly good kidskin) and my first have a look at La Botte Gardiane.
Random Stroll
The third, most up-to-date technology. Random Stroll has a mixture of sensible and informal, with JM Weston footwear alongside Coherence and Scottish knitwear model Esk. Additionally Filmelange, which Manish highlighted in a current article, and the American model Crescent Down Works. Subsequent door in addition they have a pop-up area which after we have been there was led by Rocky Mountain Featherbed, Anatomica and Huge Yank.
Omnipeople
Omnipeople (above) is 2 classic outlets, one within the north and one within the south of Seoul (Gangnam). The one within the north is the higher and positively bigger. It’s the most important I’ve visited anyplace in truth, with full measurement runs of American navy clothes and a powerful vary of durations, together with a variety of Sixties-Eighties outerwear, from Eddie Bauer and the like. The rarer stuff is in a small area upstairs.
Magnolia Miss
A smaller classic store (beneath) however simply as spectacular. In reality I discovered extra issues right here to strive on than anyplace else, together with previous American flannels, American-made Rocky Mountain, and a spread of chambrays. As with all of the classic outlets we visited, every proprietor was behind the counter and eager to clarify the historical past or fascinating features of any piece.
Soobaak
A barely extra private, quirky classic store, however actually price a go to. The gathering is eclectic, with nice garments but additionally Sony tape gamers, a little bit assortment of Cartier watches and nice books just like the Margiela: The Hermes Years. The sort of place I’d like to return to if I ever wished to search out one thing actually completely different. In addition they make a few of their very own items, together with a pleasant vary of belts.
Take Ivy
A small classic place promoting (you guessed it) Ivy clothes. Cheaper and extra trendy, it was notable for promoting not simply Ralph Lauren however the Japanese line of J Press, and a variety of Van Jacket. I picked up a varsity jacket that Van had made for a Japanese prep faculty.
Tannery
Simply throughout the highway from Take Ivy (which is why I’m inserting it right here), Tannery has a mixture of sensible and informal identical to most of Seoul’s menswear. That features Boogie Vacation (additionally a model price testing individually), East Harbor Surplus and Kenneth Subject. It’ the store in Korea stocking Fortela.
Jack Fort
A bit of area across the nook from the Assisi bespoke store. Jack is a skilled tailor who takes aside classic clothes that may’t be bought in any other case and remakes it into new items (above). That could be M65s remodelled as a double-breasted jacket, or his personal design of a area jacket made with deadstock fabric and backed with new alpaca.
There have been many different outlets we might have favored to take a look at, together with Korean manufacturers which might be doing issues adjoining to extra basic menswear – corresponding to Doc, Niftydo, Havati, Ourselves, Rinostore, Calico and others. As I mentioned, hopefully subsequent time.
