James is a reader I met in Korea final yr. A buddy of our host Sam Ahn, he joined us for dinner on the final evening with Assisi.
James has been a buyer of varied bespoke tailors for about 10 years, however has largely settled all the way down to utilizing Sartoria Jun in Seoul. He likes the Neapolitan-like consolation, but in addition, curiously, Jun’s degree of style, which he thinks many tailors lack. He additionally finds that the majority of his pals in Seoul have stopped utilizing worldwide tailors in favour of these in Korea or Japan.
His portraits had been shot by Matt Choi within the Vint furnishings gallery in Seoungsu-dong.
Outfit 1: Spring
- Jacket: Sartoria Jun
- Knit: Anderson & Sheppard
- Trousers: Sartoria Jun
- Sneakers: Anthony Cleverley
- Socks: Votta (all through)
- Bracelet: Cartier (all through)
What do you do James?
I work in an asphalt and concrete enterprise, serving the development trade. I’m in an enormous workplace, and seeing everybody in tailoring was what first bought me into tailoring initially. My Dad was at all times very well dressed too.
However you’re wearing a really constant approach in these pictures, a extra tonal and relaxed model of tailoring?
Sure, most individuals within the workplace don’t put on a swimsuit and tie any extra, they put on polo shirts or one thing like that. It bought to the stage that somebody would at all times ask you the place you had been going for those who put on carrying a swimsuit, so I began dressing extra casually – this was three or 4 years in the past.
I’m very constant now in what I put on – tender jackets and trousers, often with knitwear or a T-shirt. I like understated colors and textures, so additionally suede sneakers quite than leather-based. These three outfits symbolize how I costume via totally different seasons of the yr right here – the coat and scarf in winter, jacket and knit in spring, T-shirt and light-weight jacket in summer time.
Is that OK with the climate, it appears to contain a number of pale trousers for example.
Sure it’s OK more often than not in Seoul – I most likely put on one in all a lot of these outfits 300 days of the yr. The trousers are a basis piece for me too, I’ve 5 pairs all in just about the identical color. Not white, as that’s a bit too flash on males, however varieties of off-white.
Is this type of look uncommon in Seoul? I don’t really feel I noticed many individuals carrying it.
No it’s fairly uncommon, you’re proper. Mushy and cozy issues are well-liked, however you don’t see many individuals carrying tonal tailoring like this. I like that – it feels private but in addition understated and well-dressed.
Quite a lot of tailoring in Korea remains to be fairly flashy – I feel you noticed a number of that type of factor at Sam’s celebration. Loud ties, numerous patterns, numerous pocket squares. That was the model that turned massive when tailoring was very trendy right here.
That most likely occurs in every single place, proper? When one thing is stylish, lots of people go excessive. It actually occurred in Europe, and also you at all times used to see it at Pitti.
Sure, it’s fading right here now, nevertheless it’s the identical type of perspective that makes folks wish to undertake fashions in a short time and intensely. Koreans tend to try this as an entire, however I’m positive it occurs in every single place.
Outfit 2: Summer season
- Jacket: Antonio Pascariello
- T-shirt: James Perse
- Trousers: Sartoria Jun
- Sneakers: Aubercy
Which tailors have you ever tried?
I feel possibly 10 in whole, principally Italian, Korean, Japanese. I used Antonio Pascariello in Naples, who made this houndstooth jacket, some in Florence, Ciccio and Anglofilo in Japan, Jun in Korea clearly.
You by no means travelled to the UK?
No, simply Italy actually. And right this moment I just about solely use Jun – possibly for 90% of issues. He has a really private aesthetic and an curiosity in garments that you just don’t actually discover in most locations. I want extra tailors cared about model to be trustworthy, it might make issues rather a lot simpler. They’re fantastic craftsmen, however the model aspect doesn’t curiosity them a lot.
Jun is at all times eager about that, and we’ve got lengthy conversations in regards to the historical past of favor. He imports his buttons from Italy as a result of it’s laborious to get good ones right here. In truth I feel that’s one of many issues that additionally swayed it for me – I may discuss to Jun and talk about clothes the place I couldn’t with anybody in Italy.
Do you at all times put on these type of materials?
Sure I feel that’s been a part of the evolution. It’s necessary to have the ability to strive various things as a buyer, and materials is an enormous a part of that. Making an attempt tweed and cashmere, for instance. I discover I desire the softness, the drapiness of cashmere and that sort of cloth.
It’s truly been one thing that Everlasting Fashion has been very helpful for through the years – dialogue of materials, weight and weave, how they carry out and really feel.
The opposite factor I like about your writing is the way in which you assess what the most effective is in a selected class – like T-shirts for instance. There are such a lot of on the market, and also you may find yourself having ones from 10 totally different manufacturers. However you break it down and clarify what the traits of every are, so that you perceive what one thing is nice or dangerous at.
The place is that this T-shirt from?
It’s from James Perse. I like his garments as a result of they’re in washed supplies, which inserts in with the sorts of colors and look I like.
What do you want about Jun’s model?
Largely how snug it feels, but in addition masculine. It’s elegant, nevertheless it isn’t fitted anyplace – it simply sits on the physique effectively. The shoulders aren’t too massive or too small, the waist is at all times snug. It’s totally well-balanced.
I discovered that I at all times reached for my Jun jackets, even once I had numerous different items from different tailors. I knew I’d look good in it, however I would even be very snug. So over time I steadily bought every little thing from him.
I do know you didn’t have a lot time to see him on this current journey, however for those who ever come once more we should always go see him collectively. It will be good to speak about his aesthetic.
Sure we solely talked briefly sadly. His son was in poor health so he needed to get dwelling.
He doesn’t journey to Pitti anymore both, as a result of he has a household. His spouse would kill him if he travelled as a lot as he used to!
Outfit 3: Winter
- Coat: Sartoria Jun
- Knit: Loro Piana
- Scarf: Denis Colomb
- Trousers: Sartoria Jun
- Sneakers: Anthony Cleverley
I feel this may be my favorite of the three seems. I just like the V-neck beneath and not using a T-shirt, although I don’t assume I actually have the shoulders to tug it off.
Thanks. Really I solely tried carrying my cashmere knits and not using a T-shirt beneath not too long ago, nevertheless it’s so snug, a very totally different degree. And you actually admire the cashmere otherwise.
I feel I’d discover it somewhat uncomfortable, at the very least by the tip of the day. Do you not?
No it’s positive, however I feel folks really feel these items in a different way. It’s additionally what bought me into carrying extra scarves, like this one from Denis Colomb. They’re actually nice by the way in which, the most effective scarves I’ve tried, you need to have a look at them.
Thanks, I don’t know them in any respect. I’m guessing you put on numerous Loro Piana as effectively?
Sure, I’ve been a buyer for a very long time and this V-neck is from Loro Piana. It actually suits my aesthetic.
You talked about at dinner how a lot you want raglan coats – who made this one?
It’s from Jun, like most issues. I do know most tailors don’t like making raglans, however Pascariello does it effectively and Jun [who trained there] does it now too. I feel he’s perfected it.
I most likely put on raglan coats 90% of the time in winter. I like the very fact they appear extra relaxed than a standard overcoat.
I observed you are not carrying a watch. Do you ever put on one?
I used to put on a watch however in Korea watches turned a very massive standing factor for males, and one thing I wished to choose out of. I used to have some classic Patek and Cartier however I bought all of them ultimately, as they simply drew an excessive amount of consideration. I suppose it is a cultural factor largely. I desire a easy bracelet now.
Final month we ran a undertaking referred to as Dry January, the place we talked about caring for garments and the way the most effective ones age. Do you do a lot of your personal stitching or alterations?
No, I don’t assume I may even thread a needle! However alterations are really easy in Korea, there are alterations tailors on each block, and it’s prime quality and low cost. Rather more so than in Europe.
So there’s no must be taught to do issues your self actually. You will get repairs completed simply, cleansing completed simply. I feel I take care of my garments effectively although, and my wardrobe is fairly slimmed down with every little thing revolving round this type of look.
Do you assume you’d ever change sooner or later?
There are fashions in tailoring as in different issues after all, however I don’t assume so. It suits me and my way of life so effectively. It additionally feels consistent with the opposite issues I like – just like the classic furnishings on this gallery, which I’ve purchased from a few occasions.
I suppose it’s at all times going to really feel extra of a long-term factor when it’s so linked to your character and style.
Sure I feel that’s proper. Additionally as you become older, your style in numerous issues matures and settles. As you mentioned in your article, Korea feels prefer it has gone via that course of in recent times, and I’ve too.
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