Milan & Paris Trend Weeks: A Story of Two Cities & A Trend Business First

If you’re an ardent follower of vogue, then you recognize that every vogue week metropolis has its personal persona. This yr, the distinction between Milan Trend Week and Paris Trend Week was particularly evident, as the previous supplied attractive and glamorous seems, whereas the latter went all in on avant-garde and experimentalism. Listed here are a number of the variations (and similarities) between the 2 vogue cities for the Spring 2024 season.

MILAN FASHION WEEK SS24

Milan Trend Week could also be over, however the reminiscence of  beautiful collections and star-studded entrance rows linger on. The six-day occasion, which ran from September 19^th to September 25^th, showcased a number of the most influential and inventive designers on the planet. One of many most important themes that emerged from MFW was a return to glamour, sensuality and class, however…with a contemporary twist. Among the highlights included:

THE NEW TOM FORD

Peter Hawkings, the British designer who changed Tom Ford because the artistic director of his namesake model, made his debut with a set that stayed true to Ford’s signature fashion of smooth minimalism and hedonistic class. The present featured velvet fits, silk blouses, leather-based coats, night sandals and crystal-embellished attire in a palette of black, white, crimson and metallics. Hawkings additionally added some playful touches, corresponding to asymmetrical jackets, cropped tuxedos and satin knickers, worn over pantyhose. The gathering was a tribute to Ford’s legacy and an announcement of Hawkings’ personal imaginative and prescient for the way forward for Tom Ford. Some may even name Hawkings, Ford’s mini-me.

CHANGING OF THE GUARD

Sabato De Sarno, the previous Valentino designer who took over as Gucci’s artistic director after Alessandro Michele’s departure, additionally made his first look on the Milan runway with a set that aimed to make individuals fall in love with Gucci once more. De Sarno targeted on fluidity, lightness, and freedom, creating attire in sheer materials that contrasted with tailor-made fits and coats in Gucci’s iconic supplies. He additionally launched a brand new “it shade”, Gucci Rosso, a deep oxblood hue that evoked a way of retro sophistication. The gathering was a celebration of Gucci’s heritage and a mirrored image of De Sarno’s private fashion.

YOU’VE BEEN SLIMED

Miuccia Prada and Raf Simons continued their Prada collaboration with a set that explored the idea of craft and method. The present was set in an area stuffed with slime that dripped from the ceiling, making a distinction between the natural and the factitious. The garments have been equally juxtaposed, mixing formal silhouettes with floaty materials, printed fringe with floral patterns, and metallic equipment with delicate supplies. The gathering additionally featured some nods to Prada’s previous, corresponding to Peter Pan collars, shiny trenches and hand-carved bag clasps that reproduced a design from 1913. The gathering was an indication of Prada’s innovation and excellence.

THE ART OF SEDUCTION

Domenico Dolce and Stefano Gabbana, the design duo behind Dolce & Gabbana, delivered a set that was all about seduction and glamour. The present was stuffed with corset attire, tulle slips, lingerie units, barn jackets and flapper attire in satin, velvet, leather-based and lace. The colours have been wealthy and vibrant, starting from black and white to crimson, pink, purple and gold. The equipment have been equally eye-catching, that includes crystal elaborations, steel fringe and classic baubles. The gathering was a tribute to Dolce & Gabbana’s signature aesthetic and a celebration of femininity.

‘90s GLAMOUR

Versace is likely one of the world’s most iconic and influential vogue homes, recognized for its daring, attractive and glamorous fashion. For Spring 2024, the Home paid tribute to its founder Gianni Versace and his legendary designs from the early ’90s. The gathering was impressed by the autumn 1995 Versace and spring 1995 Atelier Versace collections, which have been marked by a ladylike class and class.

One of many highlights of the present was the return of Claudia Schiffer to the runway, who modeled for Versace within the ’90s and have become one in every of vogue’s unique supermodels. Schiffer wore a pale-yellow lace embroidered steel mesh slipdress that evoked the sensuality and glamour of Versace’s signature materials. The gathering additionally mirrored the present tendencies of the season, corresponding to quick and shorter shorts and skirts, checkerboard prints, pastel colours and flat ballerina footwear. Versace additionally up to date its basic Medusa-patterned silks into boxer quick and shirt units for women and men, including a contact of playfulness and luxury to the gathering.

ROMAN ELEGANCE

Fendi celebrated its Roman roots and its up to date imaginative and prescient for Spring 2024. Kim Jones, the inventive director for couture and womenswear, stated he was impressed by Rome and the ladies who stay there. “In Rome, there’s an class in ease and never caring what anyone else thinks—that’s actual luxurious. On this assortment, I wished to mirror that,” Jones wrote within the present notes.

The present featured fashions carrying fluid attire, tailor-made fits, knitwear separates and leather-based coats in a palette of black, white, crimson, yellow and blue. The gathering additionally featured some references to Fendi’s previous, such because the double-F brand, the puzzle print and the steel mesh material. The gathering was influenced by Karl Lagerfeld’s spring 1999 present for the home and his minimalist strategy.

A FASHION INDUSTRY FIRST!

The closing of Moschino’s Spring 2024 Present. (Photograph Credit score: Vogue)

Up till now we thought we had seen all of the ‘firsts’ there have been to see within the vogue business, e.g., Black and ethic fashions showing on journal covers and racial & ethnic variety, measurement inclusivity, the bodily handicapped and transgender fashions on the runway. We witnessed high-end designers like Karl Lagerfeld collaborating with H&M and different well-known designer collaborations with Goal. Then got here the ‘designer for the designer’ development, John Galiano at Maison Margiela and Raf Simmons at Jil Sander, adopted by the ‘visitor designer’ phenomenon, corresponding to Simone Rocha for Jean Paul Gaultier Couture and Colm Dillane for Louis Vuitton. And naturally the ‘superstar’ artistic director craze, the newest being Pharrell Williams at Louis Vuitton and Balmain x Beyoncé.

The Moschino model has all the time been the business’s most playful vogue home, recognized for its witty, colourful and irreverent fashion. After founder Franco Moschino’s dying in 1994, Rossella Jardini took the helm, adopted by Jeremy Scott who, for ten years, elevated the model’s standing. With the exit of Scott in March 2023, everybody questioned who would change him, particularly since this yr marks the model’s fortieth anniversary. Nicely, enter the period of ‘visitor stylist”.

Each fashionista is aware of that the position of ‘stylist’ has been given an enormous increase, thanks partly to the primary ever CFDA “Stylist of the 12 months” award that went to Legislation Roach in 2022. So, in a daring first transfer for the style business, the Moschino model invited 4 outstanding stylists to reinterpret its archive to create the Spring 2024 Moschino assortment. Whether or not the model couldn’t get it collectively to rent a brand new artistic director in time for his or her Spring 2024 season or…maybe it’s a sign that stylists at the moment are the brand new act on the town. Regardless of the purpose, the home reached out to 4 stylists who paid tribute to the late Franco Moschino and his legacy of satire, subversion and pleasure. Stylists Carlyne Cerf de Dudzeele, Katie Grand, Gabriella Karefa-Johnson, and Lucia Liu every created 10 seems that mirrored their very own private fashion and injected a few of Moschino’s signature parts.

The finale of the present featured 40 fashions carrying T-shirts with Moschino’s brand, and raised funds for the Elton John AIDS Basis in reminiscence of Franco Moschino who died from AIDS in 1994.

PARIS FASHION WEEK

Paris Trend Week, which ran from Sep 25^th to Oct 3^rd is the grand finale of  vogue month.  This yr the Parisian runways have been filled with surprises, as many designers experimented with avant-garde ideas, supplies, and silhouettes, difficult the standard notions of magnificence and elegance. Listed here are a number of the highlights from the Paris Trend Week Spring 2024.

A BALL OF FUN

Rei Kawakubo, the founder and inventive director of Comme des Garçons, is likely one of the pioneers of avant-garde vogue, and her newest assortment was no exception. Overcome by the state of the world at present, and the sensation of gloom and doom, Rei Kawakubo’s counterintuitive response was to roll out a set stuffed with large balls of enjoyable.

For Spring 2024, Kawakubo confirmed off her playful facet with multi-colored, bubbly material sculptured seems. Patterns ranged from neon graphics to Hawaiian hibiscus prints. The gathering was a surprising show of Kawakubo’s inventive imaginative and prescient and craftsmanship.

FINDING THE LIGHT

Rick Owens is one other designer who is understood for his avant-garde and edgy fashion, usually impressed by subcultures and dystopian themes. However for Spring 2024, Owens confirmed his softer facet by enjoying with colours starting from deep reds and mauve-ish pinks. It was a refreshing tackle Owens’ typical goth-like aesthetic.

Seems to be ranged from peak-shouldered shrunken leather-based bike jackets to billowing parachute like capes. Owens additionally featured loads of slim, lengthy skirts with ultra-high waists,  in addition to round pouf attire which have been oh so whimsical.

THE GREAT TRANSFORMER

Maison Margiela is likely one of the most avant-garde and influential vogue homes on the planet, recognized for its deconstructed and reconstructed clothes, usually enjoying with the notions of identification and anonymity. Its spring 2024 assortment was a daring exploration of dualities and transformation, creating a surprising visible influence and a profound emotional expression. The gathering was designed by John Galliano, who can be the artistic director of the home, and who’s broadly thought to be one of the crucial unique and visionary designers of our time.

Galliano is a grasp of enjoying with the juxtaposition of classic impressed items, corresponding to bodices, linings, and petticoats and deconstructing them as much as create his beloved avant-garde seems.

REMIXING THE CODES

Yohji Yamamoto is one other one of many pioneers of avant-garde vogue, and his newest assortment was no exception. The designer has been creating his experimental fashions for over 40 years and not too long ago said in an interview with Vogue that “he hates wanting again to his personal work.”

For Spring 2024 Yamamoto seems to the good designers of the previous for inspiration, citing Chanel, Givenchy, and Balenciaga. He stated he wished to look at and remix their codes in his distinct means. Seems to be ranged from restrained black attire over white shirts to deconstructed frocks. Yamamoto’s assortment was totally in black with a pop of white sprinkled all through. However the darkness showcased Yamamoto’s creations brilliantly, as seems have been layered with pleats and tucks creating origami-like quantity that was a surprising show of Yamamoto’s inventive imaginative and prescient and craftsmanship.

SARAH BURTON TAKES HER FINAL BOW

The home of Alexander McQueen has all the time been recognized for its progressive and futuristic designs, usually pushing the boundaries of vogue and expertise. Its spring 2024 present was artistic director Sarah Burton’s ultimate assortment for the home. “This assortment is impressed by feminine anatomy, Queen Elizabeth I, the blood crimson rose, and Magdalena Abakanowicz, a transgressive and highly effective artist who refused ever to compromise her imaginative and prescient,” she wrote within the press assertion. “The present is devoted to Lee Alexander McQueen, whose want was all the time to empower girls, and to the eagerness, expertise, and loyalty of my group.”

Burton additionally paid tribute to Britain and the nationwide flower of England, the crimson rose. The flower motif made its mark on a number of attire. The artistic director was additionally impressed by textile sculptures of Abakanowicz, a feminist artist from Poland, whose varieties recommend the embrace of motherhood, vaginas, consolation, and safety.

From armored leather-based corsetry to robes that celebrated the feminine physique, the gathering was a exceptional demonstration of Burton’s imaginative and prescient and ability. We’re all questioning what Burton will do subsequent. Keep tuned.

So, inform us, do your creations lean on the facet of sultry and seductive, or do they lean in direction of avant-garde?